The Cartier Santos stands as a testament to enduring design, a timepiece that has gracefully evolved while retaining its unmistakable character for over a century. For those drawn to its distinctive square case, exposed screws, and rich heritage, the allure of owning a Cartier Santos is undeniable. However, with a diverse range of models, materials, and sizes available today, navigating the collection to find your perfect Santos can feel like charting new skies.
Our Cartier Santos Ultimate Guide is your co-pilot on this exciting journey. We’ll delve into the fascinating history of the Santos, tracing its evolution from a revolutionary tool watch to a coveted symbol of sophisticated style. We’ll explore the key design elements that define its iconic look and break down the various iterations, from the classic Santos-Dumont to the modern Santos de Cartier. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time luxury watch buyer, understanding the nuances of each model is crucial in making an informed decision.
Explore the Cartier Santos collection and all it has to offer with Buy Best Quality Watches
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A Brief History of the Cartier Santos
The Cartier Santos earns the distinction of being the first pilot’s wrist watch and the first wrist watch designed for men. It all began when Louis Cartier, third-generation owner of the French Maison and chief designer of many of their iconic timepieces, met Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont.
In the 1900s, Santos-Dumont was already becoming famous all over the world for his feats in aviation. As he began flying heavier aircrafts, he desired a watch that he could use to track time without having to remove his hands from the controls of his plane (such as removing a pocket watch from his pocket). This request inspired Cartier to design a watch that could be fixed to the user’s wrist. It became the first wrist watch designed for men, and its squarish face with rounded corners was also unorthodox at the time. After this, Santos-Dumont never piloted a flight without his Cartier watch.
The original Santos-Dumont watch was designed in 1904, but it wasn’t until 1911 that it was released to the public. At a time when wristwatches were largely considered feminine accessories, the Santos established itself as a functional and stylish necessity for a man engaged in a decidedly masculine pursuit. It paved the way for the widespread adoption of wristwatches by men, demonstrating their practicality and durability in demanding conditions.
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Since then, it has changed and upgraded into several models and styles to choose from, still with the striking figure and build that made it famous in the first place. This a model that has been around for over 100 years with very little change. The Santos collection is the oldest line of watches made by the French jewelry and watchmaker, and it remains in their catalog to this day.
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Cartier Santos Key Features
The most defining characteristic of the Cartier Santos is its square case. Louis Cartier not only wanted to challenge the norms of the day, he also found inspiration from the architecture of Paris and its symmetry. Here are key characteristics of the Cartier Santos, elements combined to forge a timepiece that was both functional and stylish, forever changing the landscape of wristwatches.
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Squarish Case
The squarish case of the Cartier Santos stands as a bold departure from the predominantly round silhouettes that defined early wristwatches, marking a pivotal moment in horological design. Inspired by the geometric harmony found in Parisian architecture, Louis Cartier envisioned a timepiece that exuded a sense of balance and modernity. This deliberate choice not only challenged the aesthetic norms of the era but also established a distinct and instantly recognizable identity for the Santos. The square form, with its clean lines and defined angles, projected an air of sophistication and unconventionality, setting it apart from its contemporaries.
While resolutely square, the case design of the Santos thoughtfully incorporates ergonomic considerations. Often featuring subtly softened edges and carefully contoured lugs, the watch is engineered to sit comfortably and securely on the wrist. This attention to wearability ensures that the striking geometric form does not compromise practicality. Over its long history, the squarish case has served as a versatile canvas for various interpretations, appearing in an array of sizes, precious metals, and contemporary materials. This adaptability has allowed the Santos to evolve with changing tastes while steadfastly retaining its foundational and iconic shape.
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Exposed screws on the bezel and bracelet
The deliberate inclusion of exposed screws on the bezel and bracelet of the Cartier Santos is another defining characteristic that sets it apart and contributes to its unique aesthetic. Rather than concealing these functional components, Louis Cartier boldly integrated them into the design, transforming them from mere necessities into distinct visual elements. This unconventional approach lent the watch an industrial yet sophisticated flair, hinting at the engineering and construction of the timepiece and aligning with the spirit of innovation of the early 20th century.
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Movements
The Cartier Santos collection utilizes three main types of movements, reflecting both its historical roots and modern advancements in horology:
Automatic Movements: Many contemporary Cartier Santos models, particularly within the Santos de Cartier line, are powered by automatic (self-winding) mechanical movements. These movements, such as the in-house Calibre 1847 MC, are designed for everyday use and offer convenience as they wind themselves with the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. Automatic Santos models often feature robust performance and longer power reserves, making them practical for daily wear.
Quartz Movements: Certain models in the Cartier Santos collection, especially within the Santos-Dumont and some vintage or smaller variations like the Santos Galbée, utilize quartz movements. Quartz movements are battery-powered and known for their high accuracy and lower maintenance requirements compared to mechanical movements. The inclusion of quartz options makes the Santos collection more accessible to a wider audience and caters to those who prioritize precision and ease of use. Notably, some modern Santos-Dumont models feature high-autonomy quartz movements with extended battery life.
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Cartier Santos Key Models
The Santos Collection currently has two lines: The Santos-Dumont and the Santos de Cartier. However, throughout the years, there have been even more iterations of the Santos.
While upgrading the design and keeping up with the demands of the luxury watch market, Cartier focused on keeping all of the key features that made this watch unique. Let’s take a look at the different versions of the Cartier Santos watch, old and new.
Cartier Santos Dumont (1904 and 2019)
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The Cartier Santos Dumont was is a classic interpretation of the pilot’s wrist watch that Louis Cartier designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. It became commercially available in 1911, but was discontinued during the Second World War due to aviation requirements. It was revived in limited editions in 1998 and 2004, but in 2019, it came back as a standard production piece.
The Cartier Santos Dumont is the closest model to the original watch from 1904, keeping the hallmark square case and the blue cabochon with a knurled crown. For its revamp, it was given larger dimensions and a sleeker profile to suit modern tastes. They also moved the railroad minute track from the center of the dial to the outer section for a cleaner dial.
What’s most notable with the current crop of Santos Dumont watches is the custom quartz movement that has a six-year battery life. While modern Santos models are powered by automatic movements, the choice of a quartz movement here opens the collection up to a larger audience.
The current Cartier Santos Dumont is available in steel and rose gold, as well as two-toned versions and those with diamond accents and a high-quality, alligator leather strap.
To suit men and women, Santos Dumont case sizes come in 38 mm x 27.5 mm and 43.5 mm x 31.4 mm.
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Santos de Cartier (2018)
The Santos de Cartier (2018) is a modern version of the original Santos watch. It shares many of its design elements with its predecessor, but it also has some notable differences. The crown lock, specially designed bezel, and adjustable metal link bracelet really set it apart from the original. You’re looking at complete luxury without the ostentatious flash.
There are several models available today in gold, stainless steel, and two-tone styles. The two-tone styles are the perfect blend of luxury and stainless steel with the gold screws on the bracelet and the gold bezel against a stainless steel case.
You’ll also find models with three hands rather than two, chronographs, and even skeletonized models. This contemporary and sportier take on the Santos is powered by in-house calibers, the Cartier Santos 1847 MC (time only), 1904 MC (chronograph) and the 9611 MC (skeleton).
When the Santos de Cartier predecessor was first designed in 1978, Cartier wanted to use the Santos line to follow the new trend of luxury watches made from stainless steel. That’s what inspired Cartier to move away from the original leather strap for the Santos and instead create the metal link bracelet that matched the exposed screws on the iconic bezel.
With the return of the Santos de Cartier in 2018, the French Maison introduced the “QuickSwitch” and “SmartLink” bracelet systems. The QuickSwitch system allows the wearer to simply press a small rectangular button beneath the watch band to release the bracelet no tools necessary. This makes it easier to swap out the metal bracelet for a leather strap when you please. Meanwhile, the SmartLink system allows the wearer to adjust the size of the bracelet through a button placed on each link that, when pressed, will release the individual link. Again, no tools needed.
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Cartier Santos 100 (2004)
The Cartier Santos 100 was released in 2004 to celebrate the Santos’ 100th anniversary. It ceased production in 2018 with the release of the Santos de Cartier, but it’s still sought after and has a massive following on the second-hand market.
This model was the first to feature a crown guard and a more striking and masculine design. As the case size increased to 41mm x 51mm, they increased the size of the Roman numerals to maintain the Art Deco styling of the original dial.
The large, angular cases have been modernized to include carbon, titanium, stainless steel, and the more traditional gold. You’ll also find models that appear a little sleeker and youthful with black ADLC coating.
The Santos 100 was made available in three sizes: midsize which is 33 mm wide, large at 38 mm wide, and XL at 42mm wide.
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Cartier Santos Galbee (1987)
The Cartier Santos Galbee (1987) introduced an advanced quartz movement to bring the brand back into the spotlight and survive the quartz crisis. Cartier was known for adapting to market trends quickly and you can see that not only in the watches the brand released over time, but in the longevity of the company.
This model sports more curves than the previous versions in fact, galbee means curved in French. The rugged square shape was smoothed out and appeals to collectors. This new curved shape hugs the wrist a little closer increasing the comfort of wearing and better fit for more people. It’s naturally contoured to the wrist compared to the more right angles of the original.
This particular model was phased out of production in 2005 to make way for the Santos 100.
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Cartier Santos Ronde (1980s)
The Santos Ronde diverted from the line entirely. This was the only instance where the original design of the Santos watch was set aside for something more blended with tradition in the watchmaking industry. Trading out the square case for a round case and dial, the Santos Ronde also featured an octagonal bezel in male and female versions.
The case was made from gold, stainless steel, and two tones that gained in popularity during the 80s. You can choose a bracelet or a leather strap, appealing to both vintage enthusiasts and modern thinkers.
Unlike the Galbee, the Ronde was available in quartz and automatic movements, appealing to a wider market. If you happen to love vintage watches, this one is a keeper it blends seamlessly from casual day wear to a tuxedo or suit.
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Cartier Santos Ultimate Guide: Final Thoughts
With its colorful history, impeccable build, and timeless design, the Cartier Santos is one of the most iconic watches ever made, in the true sense of the word.
It remains a timeless and elegant collection, appealing to those who appreciate classic design, a rich history, and understated sophistication. Its diverse range of sizes and materials ensures there is a model to suit various wrist sizes and personal styles.
Intrigued by this enduring icon? We invite you to delve deeper into the captivating world of the Cartier Santos collection at Buy Best Quality Watches
.com.
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