The Most Underrated Rolex Models You Should Know About

Rolex. The name itself evokes images of iconic timepieces, precision engineering, and enduring status. Models like the steel Daytona, the vibrant “Pepsi” GMT-Master II, and the coveted “Hulk” or “Kermit” Submariner have earned their legendary status, captivating watch enthusiasts worldwide with their distinctive designs and rich heritage. These remain highly desirable watches, and for good reason.

However, the sheer popularity of these flagship models can sometimes overshadow the breadth and depth of the Rolex catalog. For those seeking a path less traveled, a unique statement on the wrist, or simply a fantastic Rolex experience without the multi-year waitlists, a world of equally impressive, yet often underrated, models awaits. These are watches that offer exceptional quality, compelling histories, and a distinct charm that resonates with those in the know.

Think of it as exploring the deeper cuts of a legendary band’s discography – you might discover a hidden gem that speaks to you in a way the greatest hits never could.

Let’s delve into some of the most underrated Rolex models that deserve a closer look:

A detailed, angled shot of a stainless steel Rolex Explorer II 216570 showcases its black dial, prominent white indices, the signature bright orange 24-hour hand, and the brushed stainless steel bezel with engraved 24-hour markings. — The Rolex Explorer II 216570, with its bold orange 24-hour hand and black dial, remains an underrated choice. Offering robust capability and a unique character within the Rolex sport watch lineup, it’s a great pick for those seeking something distinct and functional.

1. The Adventure-Ready Explorer II (Ref. 216570)

The Rolex Explorer II, while perhaps not as universally recognized as its GMT-Master II cousin, boasts a fascinating history rooted in exploration. Originally designed for speleologists navigating disorienting cave systems, its key feature is a fixed 24-hour bezel paired with a dedicated 24-hour hand. This provides an unambiguous indication of day and night, a crucial tool in environments devoid of natural light.

Why it’s often overlooked (but shouldn’t be): The rotating ceramic bezel of the GMT-Master II often captures the spotlight for those seeking a dual-time zone function. However, the Explorer II offers a more rugged, tool-oriented aesthetic. Its previous generation, the 42mm reference 216570, especially with the crisp white “Polar” dial, presents a modern wrist presence and a direct visual link to the original 1971 Explorer II (Ref. 1655) with its vibrant orange “Freccione” (big arrow) GMT hand. It’s a robust and functional timepiece with a unique sense of purpose.

Two stainless steel Rolex Milgauss 116400 watches are positioned on a green Rolex watch box: one with a vibrant Z-blue dial and the other with a black dial, both featuring the signature orange lightning bolt seconds hand and a green-tinted crystal edge. — The Rolex Milgauss 116400 is a fascinating juxtaposition of technical purpose and bold design. Its iconic antimagnetic shield and lightning bolt hand offer a distinct identity that, while often overlooked, presents a riveting option for collectors seeking something truly unique.

2. The Ingenious Milgauss (Ref. 116400GV)

Standing out in the Rolex lineup for its scientific focus, the Milgauss was engineered to withstand the powerful magnetic fields encountered by scientists and engineers working at institutions like CERN. Its name, a combination of “mille” (thousand) and “gauss” (a unit of magnetic induction), signifies its impressive resistance to magnetic interference (1,000 gauss).

Why it’s a unique proposition: The Milgauss embraces a distinctive design language. The playful orange lightning-bolt seconds hand, the fully polished case, and the signature Glace Verte (GV) green-tinted sapphire crystal (on specific models) set it apart from its more traditional siblings. This individuality, while perhaps not universally appealing initially, has cultivated a dedicated following. The now-discontinued reference 116400GV with the captivating “Z-Blue” dial, in particular, offers a striking combination of color and technology, making it a truly special piece.

A stainless steel Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea reference 116660 is photographed up close, featuring a black dial with a date window, a unidirectional black Cerachrom bezel, and a helium escape valve visible on the side of the case. — The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 116660 is an underrated marvel of engineering. Often overshadowed by the Submariner, its extreme depth rating of 3,900 meters, patented Ringlock System, and helium escape valve make it a professional-grade diver’s tool. This unparalleled capability, combined with its robust yet refined design, makes it a compelling choice for serious collectors.

3. The Apex of Underwater Engineering: Rolex Deepsea (Ref. 116660)

If the Submariner is a luxury sedan, the Deepsea is a military-grade submersible. The reference 116660 is a triumphant display of Rolex’s technical prowess, built to withstand pressures that no human could ever survive. It is the brand’s most extreme dive watch.

Why it’s a connoisseur’s choice: Its formidable 44mm case and significant thickness make it an uncompromising tool watch that is simply too large for the average wrist, keeping it out of the mainstream spotlight. But for those who appreciate ultimate engineering, it’s a masterpiece. It boasts a staggering water resistance of 3,900 meters (12,800 feet), made possible by the patented Ringlock System—a nearly indestructible case architecture. The classic black dial version, with its clean, legible layout, is the purist’s iteration. It focuses entirely on function, reinforcing its identity as a serious piece of professional diving equipment. The Deepsea offers an incredible amount of Rolex innovation and represents a commitment to purpose-built design over universal appeal.

A stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 with a rhodium dial and light blue accents is displayed on a dark, textured surface, showcasing its clean lines and minimalist design. — The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 114300, while embodying core Rolex values of precision and reliability, often goes under the radar due to its understated elegance. Without the bells and whistles of more hyped models, its focus on timeless design and exceptional movement makes it the ultimate purist’s choice.

4. The Epitome of Timelessness: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 (Ref. 114300)

In a world of increasingly complex timepieces, the Oyster Perpetual stands as a testament to the enduring beauty of simplicity. As the direct descendant of the original waterproof Oyster watch from 1926, it embodies the core principles of Rolex: precision, reliability, and timeless design. The now-discontinued 39mm reference 114300 struck a harmonious balance for a contemporary audience.

Why it quietly impresses: Lacking the specific “tool watch” designation of its professional counterparts, the Oyster Perpetual 39 sometimes flew under the radar. However, its understated elegance and versatility are its greatest strengths. Equally at home with a suit or casual attire, it represents the essence of a high-quality everyday watch. The versions with the white or dark rhodium dials, in particular, have gained significant appreciation for their clean aesthetics and refined finish.

A stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King reference 116900 with a black dial featuring a distinctive aviation-inspired minute scale and the Rolex and Air-King logos in green and yellow is positioned next to a silver Rolex pen on a green Rolex document holder. — Don’t sleep on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King 116900 – it deserves hype for its unapologetically unique dial with oversized Arabic numerals and green seconds hand that tells a story of aviation history. Its bold, functional design, coupled with Rolex’s renowned engineering, offers a refreshing and robust alternative in the sports watch world.

5. The Bold Aviator: Rolex Air-King (Ref. 116900)

The modern Air-King is arguably one of the most polarizing yet fascinating watches in the Rolex catalog. Re-launched in 2016, the reference 116900 broke from its traditionally modest past with a bold, uncompromising dial inspired by the instrument panel of the Bloodhound LSR, a supersonic land speed record car.

Why it’s a hidden gem: The dial is the main talking point. Its combination of large “Explorer-style” 3, 6, and 9 numerals with a prominent minute scale is unique and purpose-driven. This unconventional design, complete with a green seconds hand and a green and yellow Rolex logo, was a departure for the brand and didn’t resonate with everyone, causing it to be overlooked. However, what many don’t realize is that it shares the same robust 40mm case and anti-magnetic inner shield as the Milgauss. It’s a technologically advanced tool watch with a unique automotive and aviation spirit, making it a fantastic value and a true conversation piece.

Expanding Your Rolex Horizons

While models like the Daytona, “Pepsi,” and various Submariner iterations hold a special place in horological history (and in our collection!), exploring these underrated Rolex models offers a unique and rewarding experience. It’s an opportunity to appreciate the brand’s diverse offerings, discover distinctive designs, and potentially acquire a remarkable timepiece with a different narrative. Ultimately, the best Rolex is the one that resonates most with you.

The journey of discovery is part of the joy of collecting, and finding the perfect timepiece is a rewarding experience. Whether your heart is set on an iconic Submariner or Daytona, or you’re intrigued by the unique character of an Explorer II or Milgauss, the next step is finding a trusted source. At SwissWatchExpo, we pride ourselves on our vast and diverse selection of certified Best Quality , pre-owned Rolex watches. Explore our collection today to find the model that tells your story.