SwissWatchExpo Blog Side-by-Side: Watch Comparisons Rolex Submariner vs. Explorer II: Which Legendary Tool Watch Is for You?

Rolex Submariner vs. Explorer II: Which Legendary Tool Watch Is for You?

A dynamic split-screen image comparing the Rolex Submariner's black ceramic dive bezel (left) with the Rolex Explorer II's brushed steel 24-hour bezel (right).

In the revered world of luxury timepieces, few names command as much respect and immediate recognition as Rolex. Within the brand’s illustrious catalog, the Submariner and the Explorer II stand out as two of the most iconic and capable tool watches ever created. Both born from a spirit of adventure, they cater to different yet equally demanding environments. The Submariner, the quintessential diver’s watch, is a legend of the deep. The Explorer II, a robust companion for terrestrial adventurers, is built to withstand the extremes of our planet.

This blog post delves into a detailed comparison of these two horological heavyweights, exploring their rich histories, distinct features, and unique appeals to help you decide which legendary Rolex might be the perfect fit for your wrist.

 

The Rolex Submariner Date 126610 resting on a piece of dark, textured wood, highlighting its robust tool-watch design and brushed steel finish.
More than just a luxury item, the Submariner is a robust tool built from 904L Oystersteel, engineered for durability and reliability whether you’re in the boardroom or 300 meters underwater.

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The Rolex Submariner: A Legacy Forged in the Depths

Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was a groundbreaking innovation that set the standard for all future diving watches. It was the first wristwatch to be water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), a feat that revolutionized the world of underwater exploration. Its enduring design, characterized by a rotating 60-minute graduated bezel, luminous hands and hour markers for legibility in dark conditions, and the robust Oyster case, has made it one of the most recognizable and desirable watches in the world.

Over the decades, the Submariner has evolved with technological advancements, including increased water resistance to 300 meters (1,000 feet), the addition of a date function with the iconic Cyclops lens, and the use of highly durable materials like 904L stainless steel (now referred to as Oystersteel) and Cerachrom for the bezel insert. Despite these enhancements, the core DNA of the Submariner has remained remarkably consistent, a testament to its timeless design and unwavering functionality.

 


 

The Rolex Explorer II: Conquering Terrains Above Sea Level

Debuting in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II was engineered for a different breed of explorer. Its primary users were speleologists (cave explorers) and polar explorers who often operated in environments with prolonged periods of darkness or daylight, making it difficult to distinguish between A.M. and P.M. To address this, the Explorer II featured a fixed 24-hour engraved bezel and a distinct, brightly colored 24-hour hand. This allowed the wearer to read the time in a 24-hour format, ensuring they could always keep track of the correct time of day.

 

A side-by-side comparison of two Rolex Explorer II models, the 216570 and the newer 226570, both with black dials and stainless steel Oyster bracelets.
The Rolex Explorer II has seen subtle but significant refinements over the years. Pictured here are the reference 216570 (left) and the updated 226570 (right), showcasing the evolution of a classic adventure watch.

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Like the Submariner, the Explorer II has undergone significant updates throughout its history. Modern iterations boast a larger case size, a more legible “Maxi” dial, and an independent hour hand that allows it to function as a GMT watch, capable of tracking a second time zone. Available with either a classic black or a stark white “polar” dial, the Explorer II has carved its own niche as a rugged and highly practical tool watch for the modern adventurer.

 


 

Rolex Submariner vs. Explorer II: Case, Bezel, and Bracelet

While both watches are unmistakably Rolex, a closer look at their external components reveals their distinct purposes.

 

A direct, head-on comparison of a Rolex Submariner Date (left) and a Rolex Explorer II (right), highlighting the differences in their bezels, dials, and case proportions.
At their core, the Submariner and Explorer II serve different purposes. This is most evident in their bezels: the Submariner’s rotating 60-minute dive timer versus the Explorer II’s fixed 24-hour scale for tracking a second time zone.

Case: The current Submariner features a 41mm case, while the Explorer II comes in at a slightly larger 42mm. Both are crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel, a highly corrosion-resistant 904L steel alloy. The Submariner’s case, however, is engineered for greater depths, boasting a Triplock winding crown that contributes to its impressive 300-meter (1,000-foot) water resistance. The Explorer II, with a Twinlock crown, is water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet), more than sufficient for its intended terrestrial explorations.

 

An angled comparison shot contrasting the glossy, black Cerachrom ceramic bezel of the Rolex Submariner with the radially brushed stainless steel 24-hour bezel of the Rolex Explorer II.
Function dictates form. The Submariner’s unidirectional Cerachrom bezel is a vital tool for divers, while the Explorer II’s robust, fixed steel bezel is designed to work with the GMT hand to display a second time zone—a perfect companion for explorers and travelers.

Bezel: This is perhaps the most significant functional difference between the two. The Submariner is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale. Made from virtually scratchproof Cerachrom, it allows divers to safely monitor their dive time. The Explorer II, on the other hand, has a fixed stainless steel bezel with 24-hour graduations. This is a key element of its GMT functionality, working in conjunction with the 24-hour hand to indicate a second time zone or to distinguish between day and night.

 

A full-frontal comparison of the Rolex Submariner and Rolex Explorer II, showing their stainless steel cases and matching three-link Oyster bracelets.
Both models feature the legendary Oyster bracelet, known for its comfort and durability. However, the choice often comes down to the clasp: the Submariner’s Glidelock system allows for fine adjustments over a wetsuit, while the Explorer II’s Easylink provides a simple 5mm comfort extension.

Bracelet: Both models are fitted with the robust and comfortable three-link Oyster bracelet. The key difference lies in their clasp systems. The Submariner’s Oysterlock clasp features the innovative Glidelock extension system, which allows for fine adjustments of the bracelet length without the need for tools—a practical feature for fitting the watch over a wetsuit. The Explorer II’s Oysterlock clasp is equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, allowing the wearer to make a quick 5mm adjustment for comfort in changing conditions.

 


 

Rolex Submariner vs. Explorer II: Dial and Hands

The dials and hands of these watches are masterclasses in legibility and purpose-driven design.

 

 A split image detailing the handset of a black-dial Rolex Submariner (left) and a white-dial 'Polar' Rolex Explorer II (right), comparing the Mercedes hands to the phantom-effect hands.
Legibility is paramount on a tool watch. The Submariner features Rolex’s classic ‘Mercedes’ handset, while the Explorer II boasts its own unique style. This image also showcases the popular white “Polar” dial of the Explorer II, which uses blackened hands and markers for maximum contrast.

Dial: Both the Submariner and Explorer II feature Rolex’s “Maxi” dial, characterized by larger hour markers for enhanced visibility. The Submariner typically comes with a black dial, though other colors are available in precious metal versions. The Explorer II offers two distinct dial options in stainless steel: a classic black and the highly sought-after white “polar” dial, which provides a stark, high-contrast backdrop for the hands and markers. Both models feature a date window at 3 o’clock with a Cyclops lens for magnification.

Hands: A defining feature of the Submariner is its iconic “Mercedes” hour hand, a design element that has become synonymous with Rolex sports watches. The Explorer II also utilizes the Mercedes hour hand but is distinguished by its prominent, arrow-tipped 24-hour hand, which is often in a vibrant color like orange to stand out against the dial. This hand is central to the watch’s GMT function. Both watches use Rolex’s Chromalight display, which emits a long-lasting blue glow for exceptional legibility in dark conditions.

 



Head-to-Head: A Tale of Two Titans

FeatureRolex SubmarinerRolex Explorer II
Primary FunctionDivingSpelunking, Polar Exploration, GMT
BezelUnidirectional, 60-minute rotatingFixed, 24-hour engraved
Water Resistance300 meters (1,000 feet)100 meters (330 feet)
MovementCalibre 3230 (No-Date), 3235 (Date)Calibre 3285 (GMT function)
Case Size41mm42mm
Dial OptionsTypically black; other colors in precious metal versionsBlack or White (“Polar”)
BraceletOyster bracelet with Glidelock extension systemOyster bracelet with Easylink comfort extension
Signature Hand“Mercedes” hour handBrightly colored 24-hour “arrow” hand

 


 

An angled studio photograph of the Rolex Submariner Date 126610, showing its black dial, gleaming ceramic bezel, and brushed stainless steel Oyster bracelet.
The Rolex Submariner: arguably the most iconic dive watch ever made. Its design has set the standard for decades, combining timeless aesthetics with uncompromising underwater functionality.

Which Rolex is Right for You?

The choice between the Submariner and the Explorer II ultimately comes down to your personal style, lifestyle, and what you value most in a timepiece.

Choose the Rolex Submariner if:

You are a diving enthusiast or frequently engage in water sports.

You appreciate a classic and universally recognized design.

The functionality of a rotating bezel for timing events is important to you.

You desire a watch with a higher degree of water resistance.

You are looking for a watch that is often seen as a cornerstone of any serious watch collection.

Choose the Rolex Explorer II if:

You are a frequent traveler or need to track a second time zone.

You prefer a slightly larger and more robust-feeling watch.

The unique aesthetic of the 24-hour bezel and the distinct 24-hour hand appeals to you.

You value a watch with a specific, adventure-oriented heritage.

You are drawn to the high legibility of the “polar” white dial.

 

A close-up, angled shot of the modern Rolex Explorer II 226570, focusing on its fixed 24-hour bezel, black dial, and signature orange GMT hand.
Built for adventure, the Explorer II is a testament to Rolex’s heritage of exploration. The prominent orange 24-hour hand is a direct nod to the original 1971 model, designed for legibility in the darkest conditions.

 

The Final Verdict

Both the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Explorer II are exceptional timepieces that embody the brand’s commitment to precision, durability, and timeless design. The Submariner is an icon, a legendary diver’s watch that has transcended its tool-watch origins to become a symbol of success and adventure. The Explorer II, while perhaps less universally known, is a formidable and highly capable watch with a unique set of features tailored to the intrepid explorer.

Ultimately, there is no wrong choice between these two giants of the watch world. The “better” watch is the one that resonates with your personal narrative and accompanies you on your own adventures, whether they be beneath the waves or across the continents.

SwissWatchExpo offers a wide variety of choices for anyone on the market for the Rolex Submariner or Rolex Explorer II. With thousands of certified Best Quality , pre-owned watches in stock from over 20 of the world’s best brands, you’re one step closer to finding your perfect match.

 

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