SwissWatchExpo Blog Side-by-Side: Watch Comparisons The One Detail That Splits Rolex Fans: Submariner Date vs. No Date

The One Detail That Splits Rolex Fans: Submariner Date vs. No Date

A side-by-side comparison of two modern Rolex Submariner watches. On the left, a Submariner Date with its signature Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o'clock. On the right, a Submariner with a symmetrical "no-date" dial.

It’s a debate as old as the feature itself, a decision that splits watch enthusiasts down the middle. You’ve decided on a Rolex Submariner—the undisputed king of dive watches—but one crucial choice remains: Date or No Date?

This isn’t just about adding a day-of-the-month complication. It’s a choice between historical purity and modern functionality, perfect symmetry and iconic asymmetry. Let’s dive deep into the history, key models, and the arguments for each to help you find your side in this classic horological debate.

 

A direct comparison of the modern Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN (left) and the Rolex Submariner 124060 (right) on a white background, clearly showing the difference made by the date window and magnifier.
When buying a new Submariner, this is the fundamental choice: the reference 126610LN with the date function, or the reference 124060 with its clean, balanced dial.

The Purist’s Choice: A History of the ‘No Date’ Submariner

When the Rolex Submariner first surfaced in 1953 with the reference , it was a pure, no-nonsense tool. Designed for professional divers, its dial was a masterclass in legibility and simplicity. This clean, symmetrical design is what purists argue is the Submariner in its truest form.

This “time-only” philosophy has been fiercely protected. From the legendary vintage references like the Ref. 5513 to the modern Ref. 124060 in Oystersteel, the No Date has always been the quintessential steel sport watch with a black dial and bezel. It is the icon in its original, undiluted form.


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A close-up of a vintage Rolex Submariner reference 5513. It features a black "frosted" dial, no date window, white hour markers, and a stainless steel case with a black unidirectional bezel.
The Submariner in its purest form. The original design, like this vintage reference 5513, featured a clean, symmetrical dial with no date, embodying its purpose as a no-fuss tool watch for divers.

A Touch of Practicality: The Submariner Date Arrives

In the late 1960s, Rolex introduced a game-changer: the Submariner Date Ref. 1680. Rolex added its now-famous Cyclops magnification lens over the date window, fundamentally changing the watch’s appearance. It signaled the Submariner’s evolution from a pure diver’s tool to a luxury watch that could do it all.

The introduction of the Date was a massive success, and its lineage, including the current Ref. 126610LN, would go on to become the foundation for a much broader and more luxurious collection.


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Head-to-Head: The Core Differences

FeatureSubmariner (No Date)Submariner Date
AestheticsPerfectly symmetrical, clean, tool-watch look.Asymmetrical due to the iconic Cyclops lens.
Historical PurityThe direct descendant of the original 1953 model.Represents the evolution towards a luxury daily-wearer.
FunctionalityPure time-telling. Simpler movement, no date to set.Added convenience of a date function for everyday life.
The “Look”Understated, classic, “if you know, you know” appeal.Instantly recognizable Rolex design language via the Cyclops.

 


 

Three Rolex Submariner Date watches in precious metals. From left to right: a yellow gold model with a blue dial and bezel, a white gold model with a blue bezel and black dial, and a yellow gold model with a black dial and bezel.
Interestingly, the “Date vs. No Date” debate is exclusive to the stainless steel models. If you want a Submariner in precious metal, like these yellow and white gold examples, Rolex makes the decision for you—they only come with a date.

A World of Choice: Materials, Colors, and Gems

Beyond the date window itself, perhaps the biggest distinction between the two models is the sheer variety available. The choice for the No Date is simple: Oystersteel, a black dial, and a black bezel. That’s it.

The Submariner Date, however, is a canvas for variety. It’s where Rolex explores luxury and personality.

 

A detailed close-up of a two-tone Rolex Submariner Date, reference 116613LB, also known as the "Bluesy." The shot highlights its sunburst blue dial, gold accents, and the magnified date window at 3 o'clock.
The iconic two-tone “Bluesy” Submariner highlights how the date function is an integral part of the model’s identity in its more luxurious configurations.

If you want more than just stainless steel, the Submariner Date is your only option. The collection includes:

Precious Metals: The Date is available in stunning solid yellow gold and white gold versions.

Two-Tone “Rolesor”: The iconic two-tone combination of yellow gold and Oystersteel is one of the most popular Submariner Date styles.

Vibrant Colors: Depending on the specific reference, the Submariner Date can be found with dials and bezels in classic black, brilliant blue, or a striking green.

Gem-Set Models: For the ultimate in luxury, there are a handful of Submariner Date references with precious gems, from the elegant diamond hour markers on “Serti Dials” to ultra-lavish models entirely paved in gemstones.

This makes the Submariner Date not just a tool watch, but a versatile piece of jewelry that can be tailored to a much wider range of tastes.


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The Verdict: Which One Is for You?

Ultimately, there is no wrong answer. The choice between the Submariner Date and No Date is deeply personal and comes down to what you value most in a watch.

Choose the Submariner (No Date) if:

You are a purist who values history and the original, singular design.

The clean, perfect symmetry of a balanced dial appeals to you.

You want the quintessential, no-frills steel tool watch.

Choose the Submariner Date if:

You value the everyday practicality and convenience of a date function.

You love the iconic look of the Rolex Cyclops lens.

You want options—be it a splash of color, the warmth of gold, or the brilliance of diamonds.

Both are masterpieces of engineering and design. Whether you choose the clean lines of the original or the versatile flair of its successor, you’re wearing a true icon.

 


 

Find Your Perfect Submariner Today

Ready to make your choice? Whether you’ve decided on the purist’s No Date or the versatile and iconic Date, the perfect watch is waiting for you. Our expertly curated collection features a wide range of examples of both models, from sought-after vintage references to modern classics.

Explore our Rolex Submariner Collection at SwissWatchExpo.com.

 

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