The Cartier Pasha, Explained: Key Features of a Design Icon

The Cartier Pasha is one of the most distinctive designs in all of watchmaking. With its bold round case, unique chained crown, and a “square-in-a-circle” dial, the Pasha broke all the rules, especially Cartier’s own.

But where did this audacious design come from? And how has it remained a cult favorite for decades? Here’s everything you need to know about Cartier’s audacious round watch.

A product photo of three rose gold Cartier Pasha watches on a clean white background. The group includes a diamond bezel Pasha Seatimer, a standard Pasha Seatimer, and a Pasha 27 ladies' watch. — The Pasha’s design language is unmistakable, scaling perfectly from the bold 42mm Seatimer chronographs to the petite 27mm ladies’ watch, all unified by their rose gold cases and iconic chained crowns.

The Founding Myth: A Watch for a Pasha

The story of the Pasha begins with a legend. As the tale goes, in the early 1930s, Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh, commissioned a special watch from Louis Cartier.

He was an active man and needed a timepiece that was elegant enough for royal duties but water-resistant enough to wear while swimming. This was a tall order for the era. In response, Cartier supposedly created a one-of-a-kind watch with a protective, sealed crown.

While there is no hard evidence of this original 1930s watch, the legend itself became the powerful inspiration for the watch that would officially launch 50 years later.

Shop Cartier Pasha Watches

Close-up of a Cartier Pasha 38mm watch in yellow gold. A distinctive, removable diamond-set grid, or 'grille,' is placed over the silver dial, which features Roman numerals. — Highlighting one of the Pasha’s most iconic and now-collectible features: the removable ‘grille.’ This diamond-set grid in yellow gold adds a unique, protective, and opulent layer to the dial.

The 1985 Debut: Gérald Genta’s ’80s Icon

The Cartier Pasha we know and love today was born in 1985. It was the height of ’80s excess, and the watch world was ready for something bold, luxurious, and unapologetically different.

Cartier, a brand famous for its elegant, rectangular Tank and Santos models, wanted to create a sporty, round men’s watch. They turned to the one designer who could deliver a masterpiece: Gérald Genta.

A side-by-side comparison of two Cartier Pasha chronograph watches. On the left, a rose gold and black ceramic Pasha Seatimer. On the right, a yellow gold Pasha with a white dial and white alligator strap. — The Pasha’s bold chronograph design, interpreted in two distinct styles: the modern, sporty rose gold and black ceramic Seatimer and the classic, luxurious yellow gold model with blued-steel hands.

Yes, the same legendary designer behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta’s design for the Pasha was pure genius:

It was big for its time (38mm) and launched in yellow gold, capturing the “power” aesthetic of the decade.

It was unabashedly round, a direct contrast to Cartier’s design language.

It took the “water-resistant” legend and turned it into the watch’s defining feature: the canteen-style screw-down crown cap.

It was an instant success, initially embraced by men. But its appeal quickly crossed gender lines, as women were equally drawn to its powerful silhouette and non-conformist design.

Shop Cartier Pasha Watches

A Cartier Pasha C midsize watch in stainless steel, posed on a red rope. The watch has a clean white dial featuring the signature 12, 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals and a date window. — The quintessential Pasha C. This stainless steel model perfectly illustrates the core design codes that make the Pasha an icon: a round case, the ‘square in a circle’ dial, and the signature chained crown cap.

Anatomy of an Icon: The Pasha’s Key Features

What makes a Pasha a Pasha? While it has evolved, five key design codes remain its unmistakable signature.

The Chained Crown: The Pasha’s most famous feature. A small chain, or chaînette, tethers the screw-down crown cap to the case. It’s a brilliant piece of functional design turned into a signature ornament.

The “Square-in-a-Circle” Dial: The case is round, but the dial features a rail-track minute square in the center. This graphic tension is a Genta hallmark and uniquely Cartier.

Four Arabic Numerals: While most Cartier watches use Roman numerals, the Pasha stands out with four bold, oversized Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9.

Vendôme Lugs: Instead of traditional lugs, the Pasha uses a central “T-bar” attachment for the strap, which is then capped by the signature Vendôme lugs, adding to its unique silhouette.

The Grille: Though less common today, some of the most famous Pasha models featured a “Grille”—a removable grid over the crystal, supposedly inspired by military watches.

Shop Cartier Pasha Watches

An elegant Cartier Pasha de Cartier ladies' watch in 18k rose gold. The watch features a full diamond-set bezel and a diamond-paved grid over the dial, paired with a brown alligator leather strap. — The Pasha as a piece of high jewelry. This rose gold ladies’ model demonstrates the design’s capacity for glamour, combining both a diamond bezel and a sparkling diamond-paved grid.

The 2020 Relaunch: A Modern Legend

After fading from the catalog, Cartier relaunched the Pasha collection in 2020, and it was a triumphant return. The brand wisely kept the soul of the original design but updated it with modern technology.

The new Pasha is more refined, sophisticated, and versatile than ever. Key upgrades include:

An In-House Movement: The 41mm and 35mm models are now powered by Cartier’s own Caliber 1847 MC automatic movement, visible through a sapphire caseback.

“QuickSwitch” System: You can now swap the bracelet for a leather strap (or vice-versa) in seconds, at home, with no tools required.

“SmartLink” Bracelet: Sizing the bracelet is now a simple, tool-free process. You just press a small button on the link to release the bar.

A Hidden Detail: The crown cap is still there, but Cartier added a new secret. Unscrew the cap, and you’ll find a small, customizable space perfect for engraving a tiny initial—a hidden message just for the owner.

Shop Cartier Pasha Watches

A group of three Cartier Pasha watches in 18k rose gold. Two are large Pasha Seatimer chronographs with black dials, one with a diamond bezel, and the third is a smaller Pasha 27 ladies' watch with a white dial. — The Pasha collection’s versatility on full display. This image showcases the sporty, robust design of the Pasha Seatimer chronograph alongside the classic, elegant form of the smaller 27mm ladies’ model.

Why the Pasha Endures

The Cartier Pasha is a powerful testament to the Maison’s ability to blend bold innovation with timeless elegance. This same spirit of iconic design runs through every watch Cartier creates, from the legendary Tank and Santos to the graceful Panthère.

Whether you’re drawn to the non-conformist spirit of the Pasha or another classic, we invite you to explore our extensive collection of Cartier timepieces and find the icon that tells your story. Browse our vast selection of certified Best Quality , pre-owned timepieces from the world’s best brands at SwissWatchExpo.com.